It’s early winter so with few wild plants in flower we are left with stunning November views, resident birds like griffon vultures, Bonnellis eagle, red billed chough and mammals represented, of course, by the ever present Spanish ibex. In November, wildlife and landscapes in the Sierra de Grazalema are quite stunning.
White villages in the Sierra de Grazalema
Rugged peaks are home to Spanish ibex in the Sierra de Grazalema
On a clear, crisp day the rewards are higher up in the mountains. Walk a path surrounded by mature trees, you will be steadily gaining in height, take a moment to look back over the valleys and white villages, now scattered beneath.
The views will have you stopping at every turn to breathe them in. Above you is an array of rugged peaks and grazing on the slopes, camouflaged amongst the rocks and shrubs are Spanish Ibex. The males are standing proud as the test begins to see which one will become head of the herd.
Spanish ibex are easy to spot all year round in the Sierra de Grazalema
Some of the trees which edge the pastures; Pomegranate, Quince, Almond and Walnut, plus those which grow on the mountain slopes; Strawberry tree and Sloe have ripening fruit which are often used in local cuisine.
Straberry trees (Arbutus unedo) bear fruit in November in the Sierra de Grazalema
Pomegranites split and provide a welcome food supply for wild birds
Almond are ripe and ready to pick during November in the Sierra de Grazalema
November wildlife and landscapes in the Sierra de Grazalema
I’ve been living in this lovely area of Western Andalucia for the last 20 years or so and dedicate most of my time to the running of English language tourist information websites for the towns of Cádiz, Ronda, Grazalema, the famous or infamous Caminito del Rey, and also Wildside Holidays, which promotes sustainable and eco-friendly businesses running wildlife and walking holidays in Spain. My articles contain affiliate links that will help you reserve a hotel, bus, train or activity in the area. You don’t pay more, but by using them you do support this website. Thankyou!
A bit of news from the Grazalema Guide!… Here in Grazalema, international tourism seems to be picking up again with quite a few French, German and Dutch visitors exploring the village and walking trails. Very few UK visitors still, but hopefully this will be solved once borders open properly again and covid restrictions become more relaxed.
Its still really odd not seeing the groups of walkers setting off in the mornings for the peaks of the Sierra de Grazalema or neighbouring villages. Tourism has changed here over the covid years with much more day visitors on motorbikes, cyclists and day visitors. There has also been a huge increase in campers vans parked up for short stays.
Out in the countryside, almond trees in blossom are the most noticeable which adorn the hillsides and fields, varying from almost white to a shocking pink. The Paperwhite narcissus, Branched asphodels and Broad-leaved iris as each can create swathes of colour across pastures. Even the much smaller flowered Andaluz storksbill and Field marigolds can cover a large area in pink or golden yellow blooms. Migratory birds are returning and spring is definately around the corner.
Regular visitors to Grazalema will notice a few changes in the Hotels, bars and restaurants as the guys running the Kiboka burger and sports bar have now taken over the Simancon restaurant after the previous owners retired. The Torreón restaurant has new owners as does the bar Travesía. There is a new burger joint opening in the old Contrastes bar next month and Rumores bar is now removing the bakery area and replacing it with a new eating area. The hotel Peñon Grande has been closed for a while now and I believe its up for sale!
Here is a bit of a roundup from our other tourist infomation projects in this fantastic corner of Western Andalucia
Wildside Holidays
Spring is on its way and it is great to see bookings for the coming season are on the up and up. Hopefully very soon we can put this awful covid event behind us and get on with what we are good at, which is, of course, guiding people across some of the most stunning natural areas of Spain.
Traffic to the home page of Wildside Holidays is now exceeding over 4000 unique visitors each month and (not surprising to us) some of the wildlife information pages are getting upwards of 20,000 hits a month. (Especially the life cycles of the processionary caterpillar and various reptile pages). So, the plan for the coming months is to continue the ongoing project of Iberian wildlife articles as well as some info on the Vias Verdes of Spain and finishing all the entries for the Global Geoparks.
Sustainable rural and wildlife tourism in Spain is a major key to wildlife and habitat protection. There are many studies showing how wildlife tourism can impact local economies, habitats and the wildlife it contains in a very positive way. Read more about Wildside Holidays here: https://wildsideholidays.co.uk/
Ronda Today
Ronda Today continues to be the largest and most informative English language information website for the town of Ronda. A walking tour of Ronda is a pleasant and enjoyable way to spend a lazy few hours, almost everything you could want to see in Ronda is no more than 200-300 metres from the new bridge. See the homepage here: https://www.rondatoday.com/
Ronda, too, has suffered greatly from the covid crisis. Hotels,bars and restaurants have changed hands, reduced staff or simply closed. That said Ronda continues to be an important bucket list destination for foreign travellers and our site reaches more than 20,000 unique visitors each month. Traffic and hotel bookings on the site a rising steadily so the outlook is pretty good. Over the next few months we’ll be editing and reviewing certain pages to make sure all the information is current and up to date.
The Caminito del Rey
The Caminito del Rey website has continued to grow in both traffic and content. During the last four months we have sold over 20,000 euros worth of tickets via the affiliate adverts.
When the official website stops working or selling tickets, sales from our site continue, helping people to get and entry ticket for this very popular destination. Ticket sales for the Caminito del Rey in 2022 look to be record breakers for us so our recent affiliation with Get Your Guide continues to be a great success. Guided tours for the Caminito del Rey can be found here: https://www.caminodelrey.es/get-your-guide-for-the-caminito-del-rey/
Recently the operation of the Caminito del Rey was taken over by a new company and so hopefully the official website will be improved as well as the general infrastructure such as local connecting roads, bus services, the interpretation and carparking areas. Time will tell but you can be sure any news and changes will be published first in English at https://www.caminodelrey.es
The Iberia Nature Forum
The forum is developing into a nice English language resource for information about the wildlife of Spain and there are quite a few interesting subjects ranging from the VCF Tracking Iberian black vultures, the bearded vulture 2022 Andalucia captive breeding season, A petition to stop illegal water extraction in Doñana and the collapse of the endemic lizard Podarcis pityusensis on the island of Ibiza.
Here are a few other topics at the Iberia Nature Forum. Please feel free join in with the conversatons and don’t forget to share with your family and friends across your social networks!
Interesting to see that Wednesday the 5th of December 2021, the new law about animals (especially domestic) was implemented… “los animales son considerados en España seres sintientes” is a big part of this as it means they are no longer classified as a piece of furniture but a sentient being and his comes with a lot of legal rights that a person has (us also being sentient?) 🙂 ….. https://iberianatureforum.com/forums/topic/new-laws-on-pets-in-spain/
The company Nueva Pescanova is to invest over €50 million in a plant to produce 3,000 tonnes of octopus per year, equivalent to 10% of the catches of the cephalopod made each year by the Spanish fleet. There is a lot of opposition to this plan from many wildlife groups. https://iberianatureforum.com/forums/topic/first-octopus-farm-to-open-in-spain/
I’ve been living in this lovely area of Western Andalucia for the last 20 years or so and dedicate most of my time to the running of English language tourist information websites for the towns of Cádiz, Ronda, Grazalema, the famous or infamous Caminito del Rey, and also Wildside Holidays, which promotes sustainable and eco-friendly businesses running wildlife and walking holidays in Spain. My articles contain affiliate links that will help you reserve a hotel, bus, train or activity in the area. You don’t pay more, but by using them you do support this website. Thankyou!
This short footpath called “Llano del Campo” is close to the village of Benamahoma and leads you through mixed Mediterranean woodland. It is dominated by evergreen and deciduous oaks and takes anything from around one to two hours to walk, depending on how inquisitive you are. 🙂
Birds calling from the trees include woodpeckers, nuthatches, jays, firecrests, long-tailed tits and treecreepers with hoopoes during the summer months and griffon vultures plus eagles soaring through the open skies above.
The path is comfortably shaded through the heat of summer and verdant through the winter/ spring.
First two gates – Llanos del campo in the Sierra de Grazalema
The entrance to this walk can be found on the road between Grazalema and Benamahoma, this is the A 372. Pull off at km marker 37 (2 km from Benamahoma).
The Car Park and first gate- Llanos del campo in the Sierra de Grazalema
The site is obvious as there is a fenced off field with an area marked out for football and a small building (whose shaded area is very popular with nesting swallows in the spring).
There is ample parking at this recreational area. (The area will be busiest on weekends, so if you have a choice aim to go on a week day.) Go through the largest metal gates and head diagonally uphill and away from the road across this play area / cattle grazing pasture. As you go past the first oak trees there is another, smaller gate to pass through.
Second gate- Llanos del campo in the Sierra de Grazalema
Now you are in the shade of the woods on a path that meanders through the rugged rocks. This first stretch climbs over fairly rough terrain as the water erodes this path during storms. In summer time the dappled shade is very welcome and during the winter notice how green the rocks and trees are with their covering of mosses and ferns.
The undergrowth is mainly lentisc, purple phlomis and gorse with rambling plants such as dutchman’s pipe, smilax and periwinkle.
In the spring there may be a variety of orchids on display!
Rocky path – Llanos del campo in the Sierra de Grazalema
The path becomes wider and levels out as you approach an old derelict farm building on your right and left handside. Surrounded by large girthed oak trees, this is the highest point and from here you descend gently to a junction onto a partially cobbled path.
From here continue to the left heading downhill – but first, a short detour can prove interesting. If you go straight across this junction onto the narrowest path it leads you through gorse bushes etc to a water trough provided for domestic livestock.
Looking into the trough and you may see fire salamanders in their earliest stages, they are like brown tadpoles with visible gills. As adults these nocturnal reptiles are an amazing yellow and black colour. During the warmth of summer the surrounding damp patches are frequented by butterflies and bees.
Return to the main path and head downhill. Here the plant life changes slightly and now include Strawberry trees, Laurustinus, Stinking iris, Dorycnium and Honeysuckle.
Great views in the Llano del Campo in the Sierra de Grazalema
As this path approaches the main road you should take the narrow rock-edged path to the left which goes through a small gate and then ascends slightly under the oak trees. This brings you onto the pasture where you began, head for the main gated entrance back to your vehicle.
Wildside Holidays – Spain
The top wildlife, activity and walking holiday companies in Spain. Small family companies living and working in Spain. Local guides are the best!
I’ve been living in this lovely area of Western Andalucia for the last 20 years or so and dedicate most of my time to the running of English language tourist information websites for the towns of Cádiz, Ronda, Grazalema, the famous or infamous Caminito del Rey, and also Wildside Holidays, which promotes sustainable and eco-friendly businesses running wildlife and walking holidays in Spain. My articles contain affiliate links that will help you reserve a hotel, bus, train or activity in the area. You don’t pay more, but by using them you do support this website. Thankyou!
Walking in the Spanish countryside is an incredibly rewarding experience. Whether it is to enjoy the stunning scenery, searching for particular plants or enjoying photography and birdlife, the Sierras offer something for everyone. Even if you are familiar with the area there are still some essentials in order to be properly prepared for a hike into the hills so here is a bit about walking in the Spanish countryside. Safety and advice.
Basics
Compass
Map or guide
Basic first aid kit containing bandage, gauze pads, plasters and an antiseptic cream.
Altough you may want to “get away” completely you should take a mobile phone with you. After all it only would be used in the rare event of an emergency and the rest of the time it can be turned off. Mobile coverage may also be weak in the mountains
Always tell at least one person where you will be walking and roughly what time you expect to be back
112 the emergency number
If you get into difficulties or have have an emergency whilst out walking and require the police, fire brigade, or an ambulance then the number to call ( in Spain) is 112. You don’t need to dial an area code, and the operator should be able to speak a range of different languages. If you have a disability that makes speaking on the phone difficult then you can also send an SMS text message to 112
Carry plenty of food and water. Food for energy is important not only to keep your stomach happy but also your mind. If your brain is lacking in essential sugars you cannot make correct decisions for your safety. Healthy foods such as nuts, fruit, muesli bars, (some chocolate) and sandwiches are a better type of food to take walking.
Wearing comfortable walking shoes or boots is important, especially when tackling difficult terrain. They are designed for comfort and safety and if looked after will last for many years. In spring you may start off walking in good weather conditions, but a gain in altitude of a few hundred meters and it will be a different story. Normally a medium weight sweater and a light wind/rain proof jacket should be sufficient.
“Ordinance survey” type maps in Spain are not updated on a regular basis. Dirt tracks and trails that are marked on the maps may not have been maintained. Often the route is over-grown, ploughed up, or sometimes a fence has been erected across it. I would recommend that you don’t rely on just one track or trail for your route, look for options before you set out on your walk, as dead-ends can be really frustrating. Some tracks and goat trails may not be marked on the maps. You can normally find local walking maps and guides in most towns visitor centres or ask at your hotel or guest house for up to date local information.
Online maps and guides.
Websites like All trails and Wikiloc have become very popular over the last few years and it is likely that you will find a route in the area that you are visiting published. Remember, though, that in many cases the routes published are individual experiences by the website users who have only walked the route once. (See paragraph 3 above!)
Especially in summer, it is a good idea to start a walk in early morning or evening. Try to finish a morning walk by 13.00 at the latest and an evening walk before dark.
Shorts or lightweight trousers (to avoid scratches on your legs) and a t-Shirt or shirt with collar keeps you cool and the sun off your neck. A hat is important, even though it may be hot it’s better than getting heat stroke. (A woven grass hat allows more air through). You may be tempted to use open footwear, however proper boots or shoes offer more support and comfort and safety.
High factor sun block is recommended. When you are out walking for several hours a slight burn on the shoulders, arms or behind the knees can rub on your clothing. Always carry extra sun block to top up after a while as sweat will wear it off.
Take as much water as you and your group can carry, especially if you are not sure how long you will be out walking. Take regular sips of water rather than drinking a lot every hour. Take advantage of any natural springs to cool off your head and arms only drinking it if there is a notice clearly stating it is safe to drink.
During the winter months dressing in layers is better than wearing one thick sweater or fleece. Carry a waterproof jacket in case of rain. Take a spare pair of socks, a woolly hat, scarf & gloves. It is best to treat your walking shoes or boots with a waterproofing agent the day before a walk.
Carry enough water for the duration of your walk. You may not feel thirsty while you are walking but dehydration still occurs in cold, dry conditions. Past a certain point it is difficult to re-hydrate your body.
Meeting the local guard dog on a walk
While walking in the Spanish countryside you will more than likely pass by a farm or two. Some people can be put off by the idea of a dog lurking behind a barn waiting to pounce on the “happy wanderer”. If you approach a farm expecting to meet a dog it tends to take the shock out of the “bark”. A lot of bigger dogs will be tied up, if not you must be confident and stand your ground.
If the dog starts to advance stamp your foot and shout “FUERA”, which means away or get out. Repeating this as you walk past their territory usually works quite well, if you still feel a bit un-nerved pretend to pick up a small rock while shouting “FUERA”. If you are still not sure about passing through the dog’s territory, find another way around the farm. Always walk away with confidence NEVER RUN. More often than not, if you show no fear and use an aggressive tone in your voice they will loose interest in you as you leave their territory.
In short, whatever time of year you walk in the mountains
Wear the correct clothing and footwear
Always carry plenty of water
Make sure at least one person knows where you are walking
Carry first-aid kit and know some basic first – aid techniques.
Have a great time walking in the Spanish countryside.
Looking for Wildlife & Walking Holidays in Spain? Wildside Holidays publishes information pages about theNatural and National parks in Spain. Information about wildlife in Spain and where to find it.
I’ve been living in this lovely area of Western Andalucia for the last 20 years or so and dedicate most of my time to the running of English language tourist information websites for the towns of Cádiz, Ronda, Grazalema, the famous or infamous Caminito del Rey, and also Wildside Holidays, which promotes sustainable and eco-friendly businesses running wildlife and walking holidays in Spain. My articles contain affiliate links that will help you reserve a hotel, bus, train or activity in the area. You don’t pay more, but by using them you do support this website. Thankyou!
As the name suggests this is a high walk in the mountains of the Sierra de Grazalema. But, the easy access by road gains the altitude for you and then the walk is a fairly short circular one that goes around the peak rather than climbing to the top of it.
The view from the Coros peak close to Grazalema
This walk offers spectacular views and gives an overview of the whole area with 360 degree views from the peak itself. The peak of Coros is 1,328m above sea level and the car park 1,157m. The walk takes about 1.5 at a leisurely pace to complete the 2.7km and may give amazing sightings of Griffon Vultures, from above and below. The terrain is rugged limestone rock with rough grasses, stunted oak trees and sparse Mediterranean scrub.
How to get to the Puerto de la Palomas.
Park in the large area at “Puerto de Las Palomas” which is on the CA9104 road from Grazalema to Zahara de la Sierra.
Place your back to the view point “Mirador”/road and beyond the car park on the left hand side the trail begins at a slight incline passing through a rustic fence gate. (Not the big green gate on the right!)
Sensible shoes please?
The path is narrow and bordered by rock and amongst the rocks are a myriad of plants that have adapted to these altitudes and exposure to the elements such as Woolly lavender (Lavandula lanata), Blue Aphyllanthes (Aphyllanthes monspeliensis), Silver-leaved bugloss (Echium albicans) and White Flax (Linum suffruticosum).The path continues to climb steadily, crossing loose stones that form part of a scree slope. Along here there are several small examples of Spanish Fir trees which are endemic to this area of south western Spain and a relict of the Tertiary period. (There is an area of dense forest of this species, on the northern slopes of Sierra del Pinar).
Left: Purple Phlomis (Phlomis purpurea) Right: A path around Coros peak Grazalema
Incredible views
The views take in the reservoir and hilltop tower of Zahara de la Sierra, just beyond this is the village of Algodonales with a long hill behind called Sierra de Líjar that is well known for hangliding.
The reservoir forms the northern border of the parkland. The two joined peaks are Tajo Algarín at 1,068m and the flat top is 1,040m, the hill top town of Olvera is behind these. The slope directly below you is called Monte Prieto and this suffered a devastating fire in 1992. The grasses and small shrubs such as Mediterranean Daphne (Daphne gnidium) recovered quickly, but the oak shrubs and trees (Quercus coccifera, Q. ilex) have been slow to re-populate.
The path is well defined and in most places edged by stone, though there are some areas where the wild rose bushes and prickly leaved oaks make it a bit narrow. Here there are a few bushes of denocarpus decorticans which have attractive yellow flowers in the early spring.
Be carefull don’t take the down path
Look out for a junction before you round the end of the mountain, you should continue on the same level / slight incline and not descend to the left.
If taking this walk around May to June then look out for tall Lizard orchids (Himantoglossum hircinum) as you walk through taller scrub of hawthorns and oaks and your view changes towards Montecorto village as you curve to the right.
The path appears to stop a little further on and this is a good place to choose a rock to rest upon and enjoy any snacks that you have prepared. Scan the valley immediately below for Spanish Ibex (Capra hispanica pyrenaica) a type of wild mountain goat, and watch the skies for Griffon Vultures (Gyps fulvus). They often pass close to here and you have an advantage of being partly hidden as they round the cliffs.
Views from Coros peak across the lake to Montecorto and beyond.
To continue, the path climbs up between these rocks. At this point anyone with slight vertigo will be aware of the steep slopes dropping down into the Gaidóvar valley below. This quiet valley once contained around 20 working mills that were all water powered. Few now have working machinery with most in ruins. The hills behind are covered in Cork oak trees (Quercus suber) which are selectively harvested each summer and the ever growing town of Ronda glitters in the sunshine. The soft, hairy, grey leaves of Purple Phlomis (Phlomis purpurea) contrast starkly with the sharp gorse bushes.
In early spring there are tall white flowering Asphodels whose leaves form clumps for most of the year.
Griffon Vultures
Below are cliffs where the Griffon vultures start nesting in January with the chicks not fledging until August. The cliffs remain in constant use as they roost here through the winter too. They are majestic birds and if you are lucky enough to see them along this stretch, take a moment to watch their behaviour, especially if they are dropping from the sky with legs down to land on the cliff face below you. Some of the other birds that you may encounter on this walk are Rock bunting, Dartford and Sardinian warblers, Black redstart, Rock thrush, Blue rock thrush, Black wheatear, Hoopoe, Red-billed chough with both Ring ouzel and Alpine accentor only arriving in the winter.
Griffon Vultures in Grazalema
The path climbs again and at the point where you are faced with rugged cliffs it doubles back to the right, away from the cliffs up towards a group of stunted oaks and then opens out into a grassy area with many hawthorns. This can be a good place to see Black-veined White butterflies (Aporia crataegi) around June.
In May/June Western Peony (Paeonia broteroi) adds a bright pink flash to the otherwise green scenery. After September their seed heads look like jesters hats and are decorated with bright red and black seeds. This part of the walk brings you back to the original views but at a higher level. The peak of Coros will become visible above you and if you want to go to the highest point you can take the steep path to the cliff top, be aware that it is a sheer drop off!
Peonies on the peak of Coros in the Sierra de Grazalema
Continue along the path, dropping past a stone walled coral in disrepair, heading towards a copse of Stone Pine trees (Pinus pinaster). These trees produce the edible pine nuts in their large, almost round cones. In the shade of these trees we used to find many trap door spiders’ nests but since cattle have been resting and trampling there, they are more difficult to observe.
As you drop down through taller scrub and trees you will return to the carpark via a large green gate.
During the week it is rare to meet other walkers. As you approach the mountain it will be obvious if it is cloud covered or clear. Cloud cover will prevent you seeing the spectacular views and may be disorientating. Also be aware that in strong blustery winds or the winter months this walk will not only be very cold but also dangerous near to the cliff edges.
In high summer remember that there is virtually no shade along this route, therefore early morning would be a better time to enjoy it.
Looking for more nature in Spain? Check out Wildside Holidays!
Wildside Holidays – Spain
The top wildlife, activity and walking holiday companies in Spain. Small family companies living and working in Spain. Local guides are the best!
I’ve been living in this lovely area of Western Andalucia for the last 20 years or so and dedicate most of my time to the running of English language tourist information websites for the towns of Cádiz, Ronda, Grazalema, the famous or infamous Caminito del Rey, and also Wildside Holidays, which promotes sustainable and eco-friendly businesses running wildlife and walking holidays in Spain. My articles contain affiliate links that will help you reserve a hotel, bus, train or activity in the area. You don’t pay more, but by using them you do support this website. Thankyou!
