Cheeses from the sierra de Grazalema

Traditional cheeses from the Sierra de Grazalema are made from goat’s or sheep’s milk. ‘Cabra Payoya’ goats and ‘Oveja Merina Grazalemeña’ sheep are both registered and protected breeds of the Sierra de Grazalema and adjoining Serranía de Ronda.

These breeds have been developed to flourish in a mountain terrain where summer droughts are the norm and winter rainfall can be in heavy bursts. These flocks play a key role in the maintenance of local traditions and cultures, contributing to sustainable rural development in the region. Managed well, they also aid in the conservation and maintenance of the mountain area.

Cabra Payoya

These multicoloured caprines are nimble footed and pass easily over the limestone rocks to find the best grazing. It is not unusual to see one on its hind legs browsing the lower branches of trees, or even climbing into a tree to satisfy its appetite. For many years they have been bred and selected for their excellent milk production.

Cheeses from the sierra de Grazalema
Payoyo goats in the Sierra de Grazalema

Oveja Merina Grazalemeña

These sheep are excellent foragers and very adaptable. They offer a plentiful yield of milk which is high in protein and fat, so is ideal for making excellent quality cheese. Also Merino sheep are regarded as having some of the finest and softest wool.

Cheeses from the sierra de Grazalema
Merino sheep in the sierra de Grazalema

These rich, full fat milks from these sheep and goats can either be used individually or combined to create cheeses with a wealth of flavours and textures typical of the region. The fresher cheeses are white and crumbly whilst those that have aged are more yellow in colour and firm. Flavour grows with the aging progress; hence the very mature cheeses have the fullest intensity on your palate.

Aging

Semi cured cheese made from Sheep’s milk is cured for nearly 3 months, it is a creamy colour with a soft texture and flavour. A cured cheese is stored for a minimum of 4 months; as it ages and matures it becomes darker in colour and the flavour develops more intensity.

Semi cured goat’s milk cheese is stored for 2 months; it is pale in colour with a slightly tangy flavour and forms a natural rind. Cured goat’s cheese is stored for a minimum of 3 months, it is a deeper yellow in colour with a more intense flavour.

Cured cheeses with a covering of olive oil, rosemary, bran or lard from Iberian pigs, have been stored for 3 months before these are added and then receive a further 4 months for the flavours to combine, the resulting cheese is more tender and spicy.

Cheeses from the sierra de Grazalema
The famous Payoyo cheese in the Sierra de Grazalema

Notice there is a criss-cross pattern on the outer rind of the cheese, this originates from the woven esparto grass which was used as a form to hold and shape the cheese. To meet demands for a growing market and the health and sanitary regulations, plastic moulds are used now with the same pattern embossed.

Esparto grass cheese mould

A fine coating of wax, often black in colour, is used on many of the cured cheeses; it prevents unwanted mould growth while retaining moisture in the aging cheese. This is simply trimmed off with the outer rind when preparing a slice to eat.

Full cheeses are generally made in 1, 2, or 3 kilo sizes and some variations you may see are listed below.

  • Queso de leche de cabra – Goat’s milk cheese
  • Queso de leche de oveja – Sheep’s milk cheese
  • Queso mezcla de leche de cabra y oveja – Cheese from Goat’s and Sheep’s milk combined
  • Fresco – immature
  • Semicurado – Semi mature
  • Curado – Mature
  • Viejo – Old
  • Añejos – Very mature
  • Curado envuelto en romero – Mature cheese wrapped in Rosemary
  • Curado en Aceite de Oliva – Matured in olive oil
  • Curado envuelto en pimentón – Mature cheese wrapped in Spanish paprika
  • Curado envuelto en salvado de trigo – Cured cheese wrapped in wheat bran
  • Curado envuelto en manteca ibérica – Cured cheese wrapped in lard from Iberian pigs

Buy Grazalema cheeses here: https://lapastoradegrazalema.com/


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Cafe bar Rumores in Grazalema

Although not a “hidden” gem in the village, the cafe bar “Rumores” located on the town square in Grazalema does have a few surprises in store… Most people think of the place for breakfasts,  afternoon coffee and cakes but the food coming out of the kitchen at lunchtime is equal to and sometimes greater than other restaurants in the area…

Fantastic fresh salads, local cheeses, meats and soups… It is well worth sitting, watching the comings and goings of the village and sampling some of the great food on the menu. Vegeterian food is available without a problem..


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A high walk in the mountains of the Sierra de Grazalema – Coros Peak

As the name suggests this is a high walk in the mountains of the Sierra de Grazalema. But, the easy access by road gains the altitude for you and then the walk is a fairly short circular one that goes around the peak rather than climbing to the top of it.

The view from the Coros peak close to Grazalema

This walk offers spectacular views and gives an overview of the whole area with 360 degree views from the peak itself. The peak of Coros is 1,328m above sea level and the car park 1,157m. The walk takes about 1.5 at a leisurely pace to complete the 2.7km and may give amazing sightings of Griffon Vultures, from above and below. The terrain is rugged limestone rock with rough grasses, stunted oak trees and sparse Mediterranean scrub.

How to get to the Puerto de la Palomas.

Park in the large area at “Puerto de Las Palomas” which is on the CA9104 road from Grazalema to Zahara de la Sierra.

Place your back to the view point “Mirador”/road and beyond the car park on the left hand side the trail begins at a slight incline passing through a rustic fence gate. (Not the big green gate on the right!)

Sensible shoes please?

The path is narrow and bordered by rock and amongst the rocks are a myriad of plants that have adapted to these altitudes and exposure to the elements such as Woolly lavender (Lavandula lanata), Blue Aphyllanthes (Aphyllanthes monspeliensis), Silver-leaved bugloss (Echium albicans) and White Flax (Linum suffruticosum).The path continues to climb steadily, crossing loose stones that form part of a scree slope. Along here there are several small examples of Spanish Fir trees which are endemic to this area of south western Spain and a relict of the Tertiary period. (There is an area of dense forest of this species, on the northern slopes of Sierra del Pinar).

The coros peak in the Sierra de Grazalema
Left: Purple Phlomis (Phlomis purpurea) Right: A path around Coros peak Grazalema
Incredible views

The views take in the reservoir and hilltop tower of Zahara de la Sierra, just beyond this is the village of Algodonales with a long hill behind called Sierra de Líjar that is well known for hangliding.

The reservoir forms the northern border of the parkland. The two joined peaks are Tajo Algarín at 1,068m and the flat top is 1,040m, the hill top town of Olvera is behind these. The slope directly below you is called Monte Prieto and this suffered a devastating fire in 1992. The grasses and small shrubs such as Mediterranean Daphne (Daphne gnidium) recovered quickly, but the oak shrubs and trees (Quercus coccifera, Q. ilex) have been slow to re-populate.

The path is well defined and in most places edged by stone, though there are some areas where the wild rose bushes and prickly leaved oaks make it a bit narrow. Here there are a few bushes of denocarpus decorticans which have attractive yellow flowers in the early spring.

Be carefull don’t take the down path

Look out for a junction before you round the end of the mountain, you should continue on the same level / slight incline and not descend to the left.

If taking this walk around May to June then look out for tall Lizard orchids (Himantoglossum hircinum) as you walk through taller scrub of hawthorns and oaks and your view changes towards Montecorto village as you curve to the right.

The path appears to stop a little further on and this is a good place to choose a rock to rest upon and enjoy any snacks that you have prepared. Scan the valley immediately below for Spanish Ibex (Capra hispanica pyrenaica) a type of wild mountain goat, and watch the skies for Griffon Vultures (Gyps fulvus). They often pass close to here and you have an advantage of being partly hidden as they round the cliffs.

Views from Coros peak across the lake to Montecorto and beyond.
Views from Coros peak across the lake to Montecorto and beyond.

To continue, the path climbs up between these rocks. At this point anyone with slight vertigo will be aware of the steep slopes dropping down into the Gaidóvar valley below. This quiet valley once contained around 20 working mills that were all water powered. Few now have working machinery with most in ruins. The hills behind are covered in Cork oak trees (Quercus suber) which are selectively harvested each summer and the ever growing town of Ronda glitters in the sunshine. The soft, hairy, grey leaves of Purple Phlomis (Phlomis purpurea) contrast starkly with the sharp gorse bushes.

In early spring there are tall white flowering Asphodels whose leaves form clumps for most of the year.

Griffon Vultures

Below are cliffs where the Griffon vultures start nesting in January with the chicks not fledging until August. The cliffs remain in constant use as they roost here through the winter too. They are majestic birds and if you are lucky enough to see them along this stretch, take a moment to watch their behaviour, especially if they are dropping from the sky with legs down to land on the cliff face below you. Some of the other birds that you may encounter on this walk are Rock bunting, Dartford and Sardinian warblers, Black redstart, Rock thrush, Blue rock thrush, Black wheatear, Hoopoe, Red-billed chough with both Ring ouzel and Alpine accentor only arriving in the winter.

Griffon Vultures in Grazalema

The path climbs again and at the point where you are faced with rugged cliffs it doubles back to the right, away from the cliffs up towards a group of stunted oaks and then opens out into a grassy area with many hawthorns. This can be a good place to see Black-veined White butterflies (Aporia crataegi) around June.

In May/June Western Peony (Paeonia broteroi) adds a bright pink flash to the otherwise green scenery. After September their seed heads look like jesters hats and are decorated with bright red and black seeds. This part of the walk brings you back to the original views but at a higher level. The peak of Coros will become visible above you and if you want to go to the highest point you can take the steep path to the cliff top, be aware that it is a sheer drop off!

Peonies on the peak of Coros in the Sierra de Grazalema
Peonies on the peak of Coros in the Sierra de Grazalema

Continue along the path, dropping past a stone walled coral in disrepair, heading towards a copse of Stone Pine trees (Pinus pinaster). These trees produce the edible pine nuts in their large, almost round cones. In the shade of these trees we used to find many trap door spiders’ nests but since cattle have been resting and trampling there, they are more difficult to observe.

As you drop down through taller scrub and trees you will return to the carpark via a large green gate.

Notes

This path does not need permission to enter from the park authorities. (See the walks that need permission here).

During the week it is rare to meet other walkers. As you approach the mountain it will be obvious if it is cloud covered or clear. Cloud cover will prevent you seeing the spectacular views and may be disorientating. Also be aware that in strong blustery winds or the winter months this walk will not only be very cold but also dangerous near to the cliff edges.

In high summer remember that there is virtually no shade along this route, therefore early morning would be a better time to enjoy it.


Looking for more nature in Spain? Check out Wildside Holidays!

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Nature Plus – Grazalema

Tailored nature and cultural tours in the Sierra de Grazalema

Nature Plus – Grazalema is based in the picturesque white village of Grazalema in southwest Andalusia. The village is known for its white-washed houses, clay-tiled roofs, steep cobbled streets, traditional architecture, and deeply rooted cuisine.

To complete the idyllic setting, Grazalema is surrounded by rugged limestone mountains which form part of the Sierra de Grazalema Natural Park. With good reason, this was the first area to receive Natural Park status as you can see when walking the many stunning footpaths in the area.

This protected area holds a wealth of flora & fauna in diverse habitats, and of course with amazing views as a backdrop.

Your local guide at Nature Plus – Grazalema is Sue Eatock. Originally from the UK, she has lived in Grazalema since 2005 and specializes in the wild plants and animals of the Sierra de Grazalema Natural Park’.


Guided tours and day trips

  • All tours are flexible and can be adapted to suit your needs and abilities
  • Prices are on request and include Insurance
NATURE: Some of the options available for individuals or groups
  • A gentle nature amble of 2 or more hours.
  • A botanical tour taking in various habitats.
  • Mountain route with wonderful views, looking out for Spanish Ibex & Griffon vultures.
  • Searching for target species of plant, butterfly, bird, etc.
PLUS: Also available
  • Guided cultural tour of Grazalema village.
  • Guided circular route to visit both Zahara de la Sierra & Grazalema villages pausing to appreciate the beautiful mountain scenery from ‘Puerto de las Palomas’ and to see the endemic species of Spanish fir tree Abies pinsapo.
AND MORE: Need to unwind?

Reduce your stress by connecting with nature. Sue is qualified to take you through breathing techniques and simple meditations to help you relax while focusing on beautiful natural surroundings.

Universal energy therapy for individuals (non-contact channeled energy therapy). You don’t need to be spiritual, hypersensitive or anything along those lines to benefit from an energy healing treatment. We humans, tend to store unpleasant memories or trauma deep within. This negative ‘baggage’ can have an impact on the functionality of your body. Universal energy therapy can help you to optimize your health and wellbeing, by balancing the emotional energy of your body, and so assist in physical healing.

Reservations and Contact details

Sue Eatock

Tel: (0034) 666 99 94 21
Email: natureplus.grazalema@gmail.com
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/Sue.Eatock.Grazalema
Get Your Guide:

Legal: Susan Eatock X2922441S



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Hotel Booking sites OTA’s and unhappy hoteliers

UPDATED on the 8th of November 2021

A happy outcome?

Last year I heard about a hotel up in arms and boycotting online hotel reservation websites. Well, a year or so later, an online search produces a result with the particular hotel positioned in first place on search results with its listing at booking.com. (Its own website in second place)

It is also present on pretty much all the major OTA’s which, of course, dominate the first page of search results

So, guess the boycott didnt last very long and I hope that they worked out their dispute with the OTA’s and wish them a great future!


My original “rant” response to this article (May 2020)

So, Last week I read a really interesting article over at Secret Serrania

The owners of an art boutique hotel in the beautiful white village of Gaucin, perched high up in the Serrania de Ronda have called for a boycott of OTAs (Online Travel Agency) including Booking.com, Hotel.com and Expedia saying the COVID-19 crisis ‘has revealed the true nature of OTAs’.

But they’ve had enough of the OTAs and are now calling on their guests to book direct with them.

Read the full article on Secret Serrania here.

It would seem that there are some very unhappy hoteliers out there (and in some cases for good reason I suppose) but I think that we could look at this from a different perspective. The perspective of someone like me who runs this, the Grazalema Guide and other websites focusing on tourism in Western Andalucia…

Lets face it, I am not the only “niche” website in the world (as the link to Secret Serrania shows.) There are many small and very focused websites covering all sorts of subjects. But, and this is a big but. Although I would consider myself to be an expert in my field its almost impossible to get relevent local businesses to be confident in my product.

What’s my product you may ask?

Well I have spent years and years studying my subject. Thousands of people each month read my thousands of articles and I receive over 200 emails a month asking me for further help or thanking me for the help I have given them. My various websites have around 200,000 people visiting them each month… Surely this means something to businesses such as hotels in the area? well, apparently no!

I can give a perfect example. Over the years, I have approached literally thousands of businesses asking them to support my websites by taking out an advertising campaign.

In the past, for as low as 25 euros a year a hotel could have had main coverage and promotion from any of my sites. I can see my stats. I know how many customers I push their way and the statistics speak for themselves.

So, one day, the owner of a hotel in the Ronda area asked me. “that 25 euros a year is for what exactly?” My response was an estimated 5 double rooms booked each year…. “Hahahahaha” they said.

Maybe next year.

This went on for more than a couple of years and to be quite honest I became rather upset and annoyed that the people in the hotel industry were spending thousands yearly on “OTA’s” and couldn’t spare 25 euros for me? (After all, if I could get even 500 business across my sites I would have a reasonable income from them as a whole.) They would be helping a local business to promote their local business… Win win no?

So, one day I simply gave up trying to “tout” my business. No more phone calls or visits or emails. I just switched every link to every hotel across all of my websites to the booking.com links for all hotels… Easy! (though it took many weeks to rewrite, and edit and republish many of my articles)

And what of that original business in the Ronda area that thought 25 euros was too expensive? Well, last year they paid me 1200 euros in commissions (via booking.com.) Money that they need not have spent because I would have been very happy with the 25 Euros…

In a way the hotel industry is now sowing what it reaped. You all put your faith in these OTA’s and the greed that comes along with them. You all became obsessed with tripadvisor and facebook and twitter and booking and hotels and venere and rough travel and all the rest of the guys that spend YOUR money keeping YOUR website OFF the top of Google search.

The fact is, that whether anybody likes it or not, My tourist websites and thousands of others like mine are funded by click ads from Google and affiliate links to OTA’s. Your customers don’t see your website. They see mine because it is packed with well researched and well written content that PROMOTES your local business.

You would have been better to have spent your valuable time writing better content for your websites and talking to local people, employing local guides and advertising on locally focused businesses.

The key to the future of tourism is cooperation, trust and sharing…. look at Wildside Holidays to see what I mean by sharing..

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